Spotsholas dromchla don halla, alúmanam, 8 go 15 cm

A compact ceiling light that puts a tight pool of light exactly where you aim it, and stays out of the way otherwise. Point one at a worktop, a painting, a reading chair or a run of shelving and you get a clean, concentrated beam rather than a vague wash across the whole room. Used in a row, they give you controlled, tailored lighting with almost nothing showing on the ceiling — which is the difference between a room that is simply bright and a room that is lit properly.

The body is a simple cylinder turned on a lathe from solid aluminium, with a grilled white shell and a black radiator behind it to carry heat away and keep the fitting working for years. Set inside the tube is a recessed reflector, available in gold, that gives the opening depth and definition and lends the fixture a quietly architectural quality most spotlights never manage. It measures ∅8 cm (3.1″) across and 15 cm (5.9″) tall, weighs 0.5 kg (1.1 lb), and mounts on a matching ∅8 cm (3.1″) canopy — the kind of small detail that decides whether a ceiling looks considered or cluttered.

Finishes cover White, Black, White with a gold reflector, and Black with a gold reflector, so you can keep the fitting invisible against the plaster or let the gold catch the eye. Output comes in three levels: 10 W for 1100 lm, 15 W for 1650 lm, and 20 W for 2200 lm. Each is offered in dimmable and non-dimmable form, and you can set the mood further with three light modes — warm white at 3000 K, pure white at 4000 K, and cool white at 6000 K. If you want dimming arranged another way, email info@clerachic.com and we will handle it before dispatch.

That flexibility is why it works as well in a kitchen, hallway, wardrobe or contemporary living room as it does in a shop, a hotel corridor, a restaurant, a supermarket or an exhibition stand. The LED produces no strobe and no ultraviolet light, draws very little power, and runs cooler than the fittings it replaces, saving over 95% of the energy an older lamp would burn for the same effect. Rated life reaches 50,000 hours. It runs on AC 90–260 V and carries UL, CCC, CE, CQC, EMC, FCC, GS, LVD, PSE, RoHS, SAA and VDE certification.

Fitting one is a short job. Cut the power at the main breaker first, then mark and cut your ceiling openings. Wire the supplied driver to the supply, connect each fitting as the instructions show, and angle them until the light lands where you want it. Sloped ceilings are no obstacle.

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Downlights install into or onto a ceiling and wire directly to a ceiling junction. Which of those it is changes the job completely, so confirm the mounting format in the Product Specifications above before you cut anything - a cutout is not reversible.

Before you start

• Mounting format: recessed, semi-recessed, surface-mounted, trimless or track-mounted. The specification above states which your model is.
• Ceiling type: most models suit plasterboard. Concrete and suspended ceilings need different fixings and, for concrete, a core drill.
• Cavity depth: a recessed fitting needs clear depth above the ceiling for the body and the driver. Check the depth listed above against what you actually have, including any insulation.
• Power: all models are hardwired to a ceiling junction.
• Dimming: many are dimmable with a compatible driver and wall dimmer. The driver and the dimmer both have to suit the fitting.
• Trimless: a trimless fitting is finished into the plaster and is a wet-trade job. Plan it before the ceiling is decorated.

Tools you may need

• Drill
• Hole cutter or drywall saw, for recessed and trimless fittings
• Screwdriver
• Voltage tester
• Wire strippers
• Wire nuts or terminal connectors
• Screws and anchors, for surface mounting
• Spirit level
• Tape measure and pencil

Installation

Turn the circuit off at the consumer unit or breaker panel and test at the junction with a voltage tester before starting.

For recessed and trimless fittings only. Use the template supplied to mark the cutout and check for joists, pipes and cables above the line before you cut. Cut slowly with a hole cutter or drywall saw. A trimless fitting needs more depth and more preparation than a standard recessed one.

• Recessed and trimless: push the housing up into the cavity and let the spring clips take it against the plasterboard. Trimless bodies may need framing between joists to hold the line.
• Semi-recessed: part of the body sits below the ceiling; fix it as the supplied instructions describe.
• Surface-mounted: fix straight to the ceiling or to an existing junction box with screws and anchors.
• Track-mounted: install the track first, then lock the fitting onto the rail.

• Live to live: black, brown, or the terminal marked L
• Neutral to neutral: white, blue, or the terminal marked N
• Earth to earth: green, green-and-yellow, or bare, to the earth terminal or screw

Secure each connection and place the wiring and driver back into the cavity clear of the fitting body, where the heat is.

Recessed, semi-recessed and surface fittings finish by twisting or clipping the trim or body into place. Trimless fittings are filled, feathered and painted into the ceiling plane. Track heads are aimed after they lock onto the rail.

Switch the circuit back on and test from the wall switch or dimmer. Aim adjustable heads once the room is lit and you can see where the light falls.

Important tips

• Have trimless and recessed downlights installed professionally where plastering or insulation is involved.
• Follow the wiring rules that apply where you live.
• Use only the driver and dimmer specified for the fitting - a mismatched pair is the usual cause of flicker and of early driver failure.
• Keep insulation clear of the fitting body unless it is rated for direct cover. Trapped heat shortens LED life quickly.
• Plan the spacing before you cut. Downlights set about a metre apart light a room evenly; set them by eye and the gaps will show at night.

If anything about the cutout, the depth or the driver is unclear, email info@clerachic.com and a person will answer you.