Black Downlight for Living Room, Tiltable Head, 8.5 cm

Most downlights point exactly one way — straight down, whether or not that's actually where you need it. This one's head tilts through 45 degrees inside its housing, so you can angle the beam onto a worktop or a piece of art instead of the floor. A downlight for a living room, kitchen, or hallway that adjusts once it's already installed.

Pick a single head for a focused spot, or two heads from one housing for a wider run, and choose dimmable or non-dimmable at checkout rather than requesting it after the fact. Aluminium in black or white keeps it discreet either way.

Downlights install into or onto a ceiling and wire directly to a ceiling junction. Which of those it is changes the job completely, so confirm the mounting format in the Product Specifications above before you cut anything - a cutout is not reversible.

Before you start

• Mounting format: recessed, semi-recessed, surface-mounted, trimless or track-mounted. The specification above states which your model is.
• Ceiling type: most models suit plasterboard. Concrete and suspended ceilings need different fixings and, for concrete, a core drill.
• Cavity depth: a recessed fitting needs clear depth above the ceiling for the body and the driver. Check the depth listed above against what you actually have, including any insulation.
• Power: all models are hardwired to a ceiling junction.
• Dimming: many are dimmable with a compatible driver and wall dimmer. The driver and the dimmer both have to suit the fitting.
• Trimless: a trimless fitting is finished into the plaster and is a wet-trade job. Plan it before the ceiling is decorated.

Tools you may need

• Drill
• Hole cutter or drywall saw, for recessed and trimless fittings
• Screwdriver
• Voltage tester
• Wire strippers
• Wire nuts or terminal connectors
• Screws and anchors, for surface mounting
• Spirit level
• Tape measure and pencil

Installation

1. Switch off the power

Turn the circuit off at the consumer unit or breaker panel and test at the junction with a voltage tester before starting.

2. Mark and cut the opening

For recessed and trimless fittings only. Use the template supplied to mark the cutout and check for joists, pipes and cables above the line before you cut. Cut slowly with a hole cutter or drywall saw. A trimless fitting needs more depth and more preparation than a standard recessed one.

3. Fit the housing or mounting hardware

• Recessed and trimless: push the housing up into the cavity and let the spring clips take it against the plasterboard. Trimless bodies may need framing between joists to hold the line.
• Semi-recessed: part of the body sits below the ceiling; fix it as the supplied instructions describe.
• Surface-mounted: fix straight to the ceiling or to an existing junction box with screws and anchors.
• Track-mounted: install the track first, then lock the fitting onto the rail.

4. Connect the wiring

• Live to live: black, brown, or the terminal marked L
• Neutral to neutral: white, blue, or the terminal marked N
• Earth to earth: green, green-and-yellow, or bare, to the earth terminal or screw

Secure each connection and place the wiring and driver back into the cavity clear of the fitting body, where the heat is.

5. Finish

Recessed, semi-recessed and surface fittings finish by twisting or clipping the trim or body into place. Trimless fittings are filled, feathered and painted into the ceiling plane. Track heads are aimed after they lock onto the rail.

6. Restore power and test

Switch the circuit back on and test from the wall switch or dimmer. Aim adjustable heads once the room is lit and you can see where the light falls.

Important tips

• Have trimless and recessed downlights installed professionally where plastering or insulation is involved.
• Follow the wiring rules that apply where you live.
• Use only the driver and dimmer specified for the fitting - a mismatched pair is the usual cause of flicker and of early driver failure.
• Keep insulation clear of the fitting body unless it is rated for direct cover. Trapped heat shortens LED life quickly.
• Plan the spacing before you cut. Downlights set about a metre apart light a room evenly; set them by eye and the gaps will show at night.

If anything about the cutout, the depth or the driver is unclear, email info@clerachic.com and a person will answer you.