Lampu Downlight Tempel untuk Pulau Dapur, 8.5 cm, Tiga CCT

Point this downlight exactly where you need it, and your kitchen island finally gets the light it deserves. Rotate it a full 350° to aim the beam straight at the counter, the chopping board, or the bowl of lemons you actually want people to notice — no more settling for the single flat angle a fixed overhead light gives you.

It is built to earn that spot on your ceiling: aluminium and durable polycarbonate shaped into a compact 11.2 cm by 8.5 cm body that sits clean and close to the surface, IP43-rated for extra insulation against the steam and heat an island cooktop throws up at it. Think of it less as a plain fixture and more as a built-in spotlight — small, sturdy, and made to be aimed.

The light itself is the kind you notice. As an LED ceiling light, it renders colour above Ra90, so you get true, accurate tones instead of the flat wash cheaper fixtures give off — and because it is energy-efficient LED from the ground up, it costs less to run while doing it. It runs across a wide 90–260V range, so it lights up bright and steady wherever you wire it in, and with over 80,000 hours of life behind it, you will not be back up a ladder replacing it for years to come.

Downlights install into or onto a ceiling and wire directly to a ceiling junction. Which of those it is changes the job completely, so confirm the mounting format in the Product Specifications above before you cut anything - a cutout is not reversible.

Before you start

• Mounting format: recessed, semi-recessed, surface-mounted, trimless or track-mounted. The specification above states which your model is.
• Ceiling type: most models suit plasterboard. Concrete and suspended ceilings need different fixings and, for concrete, a core drill.
• Cavity depth: a recessed fitting needs clear depth above the ceiling for the body and the driver. Check the depth listed above against what you actually have, including any insulation.
• Power: all models are hardwired to a ceiling junction.
• Dimming: many are dimmable with a compatible driver and wall dimmer. The driver and the dimmer both have to suit the fitting.
• Trimless: a trimless fitting is finished into the plaster and is a wet-trade job. Plan it before the ceiling is decorated.

Tools you may need

• Drill
• Hole cutter or drywall saw, for recessed and trimless fittings
• Screwdriver
• Voltage tester
• Wire strippers
• Wire nuts or terminal connectors
• Screws and anchors, for surface mounting
• Spirit level
• Tape measure and pencil

Installation

1. Switch off the power

Turn the circuit off at the consumer unit or breaker panel and test at the junction with a voltage tester before starting.

2. Mark and cut the opening

For recessed and trimless fittings only. Use the template supplied to mark the cutout and check for joists, pipes and cables above the line before you cut. Cut slowly with a hole cutter or drywall saw. A trimless fitting needs more depth and more preparation than a standard recessed one.

3. Fit the housing or mounting hardware

• Recessed and trimless: push the housing up into the cavity and let the spring clips take it against the plasterboard. Trimless bodies may need framing between joists to hold the line.
• Semi-recessed: part of the body sits below the ceiling; fix it as the supplied instructions describe.
• Surface-mounted: fix straight to the ceiling or to an existing junction box with screws and anchors.
• Track-mounted: install the track first, then lock the fitting onto the rail.

4. Connect the wiring

• Live to live: black, brown, or the terminal marked L
• Neutral to neutral: white, blue, or the terminal marked N
• Earth to earth: green, green-and-yellow, or bare, to the earth terminal or screw

Secure each connection and place the wiring and driver back into the cavity clear of the fitting body, where the heat is.

5. Finish

Recessed, semi-recessed and surface fittings finish by twisting or clipping the trim or body into place. Trimless fittings are filled, feathered and painted into the ceiling plane. Track heads are aimed after they lock onto the rail.

6. Restore power and test

Switch the circuit back on and test from the wall switch or dimmer. Aim adjustable heads once the room is lit and you can see where the light falls.

Important tips

• Have trimless and recessed downlights installed professionally where plastering or insulation is involved.
• Follow the wiring rules that apply where you live.
• Use only the driver and dimmer specified for the fitting - a mismatched pair is the usual cause of flicker and of early driver failure.
• Keep insulation clear of the fitting body unless it is rated for direct cover. Trapped heat shortens LED life quickly.
• Plan the spacing before you cut. Downlights set about a metre apart light a room evenly; set them by eye and the gaps will show at night.

If anything about the cutout, the depth or the driver is unclear, email info@clerachic.com and a person will answer you.