Downlight ajustável para ilha de cozinha, 6 a 18.5 cm

A slim cylinder that tilts, so you can put the light on a picture or a worktop and leave the rest of the ceiling dark. That is the point of it. Instead of washing a room flat and hoping the result feels right, you decide exactly where the brightness lands and how much of the room stays in shadow.

The glow itself is gentle and kind to the eyes, never the hard glare that makes a kitchen feel like a clinic. Aim one low over a sofa and the evening settles; angle a row of them across a wall when friends are round and the room comes alive without anyone noticing the fittings. You are working with light the way a lighting designer would, pointing it at what deserves to be seen and letting the rest recede.

The housing is turned from good aluminium and finished in black or white, two colours quiet enough to vanish into a ceiling and stay looking current for years rather than seasons. The profile is intentionally lean, a plain tube with nothing bolted on, so several in a line read as a rhythm of light rather than a row of hardware. An anti-fog function keeps the output clear and the atmosphere comfortable whatever the room is doing. Inside, the driver is moisture-proofed, insulated and built to shrug off high temperatures at IP52, and the LED is rated beyond 80,000 hours of service, which is the difference between a fitting you install once and one you keep going back up a ladder for.

Each head measures ∅6 cm (2.4″) and stands 18.5 cm (7.3″), weighs 440 g (0.9 lb) and sits on a matching ∅6 cm (2.4″) canopy. Pick the output that suits the job: 10 W giving 1100 lm, 15 W giving 1650 lm, 20 W giving 2200 lm, or 24 W giving 2640 lm. Every wattage comes in black or white and in a dimmable or a non-dimmable build. Pick the tone as well, warm white at 3000K where you want the room soft, neutral white at 4000K over a work surface, cool white at 6000K where detail matters most. The LED is integrated and supplied with the fitting, so nothing else has to be bought. It takes AC 90-260 V, is hardwired, and handles a sloped ceiling without complaint. Certification covers UL, CCC, CE, CQC, EMC, FCC, GS, LVD, PSE, RoHS, SAA and VDE. For a dimming set-up, write to info@clerachic.com.

Fitting it is straightforward work for an electrician. Cut the power at the main circuit breaker first. Then mark out and core the apertures in the ceiling, connect the supplied driver to the supply, wire each head according to the instructions, then tilt them into position until the light falls where you wanted it in the first place.

Free shipping on every order. Easy returns within 30 days.

Downlights install into or onto a ceiling and wire directly to a ceiling junction. Which of those it is changes the job completely, so confirm the mounting format in the Product Specifications above before you cut anything - a cutout is not reversible.

Before you start

• Mounting format: recessed, semi-recessed, surface-mounted, trimless or track-mounted. The specification above states which your model is.
• Ceiling type: most models suit plasterboard. Concrete and suspended ceilings need different fixings and, for concrete, a core drill.
• Cavity depth: a recessed fitting needs clear depth above the ceiling for the body and the driver. Check the depth listed above against what you actually have, including any insulation.
• Power: all models are hardwired to a ceiling junction.
• Dimming: many are dimmable with a compatible driver and wall dimmer. The driver and the dimmer both have to suit the fitting.
• Trimless: a trimless fitting is finished into the plaster and is a wet-trade job. Plan it before the ceiling is decorated.

Tools you may need

• Drill
• Hole cutter or drywall saw, for recessed and trimless fittings
• Screwdriver
• Voltage tester
• Wire strippers
• Wire nuts or terminal connectors
• Screws and anchors, for surface mounting
• Spirit level
• Tape measure and pencil

Installation

Turn the circuit off at the consumer unit or breaker panel and test at the junction with a voltage tester before starting.

For recessed and trimless fittings only. Use the template supplied to mark the cutout and check for joists, pipes and cables above the line before you cut. Cut slowly with a hole cutter or drywall saw. A trimless fitting needs more depth and more preparation than a standard recessed one.

• Recessed and trimless: push the housing up into the cavity and let the spring clips take it against the plasterboard. Trimless bodies may need framing between joists to hold the line.
• Semi-recessed: part of the body sits below the ceiling; fix it as the supplied instructions describe.
• Surface-mounted: fix straight to the ceiling or to an existing junction box with screws and anchors.
• Track-mounted: install the track first, then lock the fitting onto the rail.

• Live to live: black, brown, or the terminal marked L
• Neutral to neutral: white, blue, or the terminal marked N
• Earth to earth: green, green-and-yellow, or bare, to the earth terminal or screw

Secure each connection and place the wiring and driver back into the cavity clear of the fitting body, where the heat is.

Recessed, semi-recessed and surface fittings finish by twisting or clipping the trim or body into place. Trimless fittings are filled, feathered and painted into the ceiling plane. Track heads are aimed after they lock onto the rail.

Switch the circuit back on and test from the wall switch or dimmer. Aim adjustable heads once the room is lit and you can see where the light falls.

Important tips

• Have trimless and recessed downlights installed professionally where plastering or insulation is involved.
• Follow the wiring rules that apply where you live.
• Use only the driver and dimmer specified for the fitting - a mismatched pair is the usual cause of flicker and of early driver failure.
• Keep insulation clear of the fitting body unless it is rated for direct cover. Trapped heat shortens LED life quickly.
• Plan the spacing before you cut. Downlights set about a metre apart light a room evenly; set them by eye and the gaps will show at night.

If anything about the cutout, the depth or the driver is unclear, email info@clerachic.com and a person will answer you.